Ningyocho: Kissako Kaiseiken (喫茶去快生軒)

Summary: Where the Japanese senior citizens around the neighbourhood come to enjoy simple but delicious toast. 

Today, I would like to share with you my personal experience at a kissaten in Ningyocho, an old downtown Edo district located within the heart of Tokyo city center. 

For those who do not know, kissaten is an old style Japanese tearoom cum coffee house that typically serves hand dripped coffee, sandwiches and cakes.

I woke up a little early, and couldn't go back to sleep, so I decided to head out and enjoy a morning stroll around my neighbourhood.
I was walking pass Tamahide (another famous oyakodon restaurant in Ningyocho, some say best in the world, but that story will be for another post someday) when I chanced upon this little coffee joint.   

Opened in 1919, Kissako Kaiseiken is one of Tokyo's oldest coffeehouses.

Stepping into this cosy little kissaten is like a timeslip back to the bubble period of Japan - bright red vinyl chairs, old school music, dull brick walls and middle aged men sipping their coffee while reading their daily newspapers. (Interestingly though, the staff in the kissaten look to be in his early 30s)

The menu selection is quite limited, with the choice of a few standard drinks like coffee, tea, hot cocoa, and toast, cake and mini chocolate sundae for their food menu.

only in Japanese..

It was early in the morning when I went, so I decided to order their toast and a cup of cafe au lait for breakfast.

cafe au lait 540yen and marmalade butter toast 210yen

Compared to typical western style cafes (Starbucks!) in Japan, the coffee is a little pricey, but is rather standard for kissatens, which usually goes for around the range of 500yen to 900yen. I would say that the cafe au lait was okay, nothing particularly special.

However, their toast was perfect - golden brown, warm and crispy on the outside, chewy on the inside, smeared with the right amount of marmalade and butter. 

I felt like I died and went to buttery, sweet toast heaven!   

I am definitely going back for more toast lovin' again...♥♥♥

Kissako Kaiseiken’s quiet and unhurried atmosphere is a welcoming change for those looking for something different from the hustle and bustle of western chain cafés of modern Japan, although for those who do not smoke, it can a little unbearable as the smoking and non-smoking section is not separated.

Address: 1-17-9 Nihonbashiningyocho, Chuo, Tokyo 103-0013
東京都 中央区 日本橋人形町 1-17-9

Kissako Kaiseken is just a minute walk from exit A2 of Ningyocho station (Tokyo Metro Hibiya Line).

Phone: 03-3661-3855

Hours: Mon-Fri 7am – 7pm, Sat 8am – 3pm

Closed on Sundays and Public Holidays