Kagurazaka: manju cafe mugimaru2 (ムギマル2)

Summary: Come to this crazy little cafe for an out of this world experience.

Back when I was a carefree student, I would occasionally enjoy a stroll from my home in Waseda to Kagurazaka to explore their cafes (like this one), and to soak in the old Tokyo atmosphere.

Kagurazaka is a elegant shopping and dining strip, characterized by specialty stores and boutique restaurants set in a quiet residential neighborhood.

Due to the presence of two French schools nearby, there is the slight romantic influences of France, which can be seen from their cobblestone streets, European style streetlights, winding river canal, as well as from the variety of French cafes and restaurants throughout the district.

On the other hand, Kagurazaka used to be a geisha district, and remnants of those days can be seen in the traditional crafts, kimono and confectionery shops around the area. There are also many Buddhist temples in Kagurazaka, adding to its unique historical atmosphere.

Till now, Kagurazaka is still one of my most favorite places in Tokyo.

With that, I would like to introduce the most out-of-this-world cafe I have ever been - mugimaru2

straight out of a fairytale
I am surprised I even managed to find the entrance to this place.


still crazy in the daytime
some kind of tiny potted plants
so hipster
mugimaru 2 
If you thought the outside craziness was just for show, think again.

The moment I entered the cafe, I was completely mindblown.

I thought I stepped into - for a lack of better word - a garbage house.
It looked like a house that would belong to a compulsive horder – mountains of strange trinkets precariously balancing on the shelves.

The first thought that came to mind was that I was going to die if an earthquake suddenly struck Tokyo right at this moment.

I was going to take a photo of the room, when I realised there was a small little lady sitting in the corner of the room, smoking her cigarette away without a care in the world. Her hair was wizened and fuzzy, clothes rugged and unkempted.

I shifted uncomfortably as she looked my way.

"Is this mugimaru..?" I asked (in Japanese).

"yes, go up the stairs" she drawled.

I took off my shoes and slowly climbed up the steep and narrow stairs, silently praying that it wouldn't break under my weight every time it let out a long, loud creak.

I got to the 2nd floor, and the surroundings reminds me of my Grandma's house back in Chiba.
And then I see a kotatsu!
※According to Wikipedia, a kotatsu is a low, wooden table frame covered by a futon, or heavy blanket, upon which a table top sits. Underneath is a heat source, formerly a charcoal brazier but now electric, often built into the table itself. (sorry, I was too lazy to explain)

Just as I was about to plonk myself down on the cushions, I feel something furry at my feet. I freak out. I take a closer look and realised I had almost stepped on a cat hiding under the kotatsu table.

just its little bum sticking out of the kotatsu
I find a different seat next to the cat, and take a look at the menu which was on the table.


I don't know whether the menus were designed to look like old, or whether it was just really old.
Somehow I think it might be the latter.

The lady from earlier comes up to take my order.
As you could probably guess from the cafe's name, the only food they served is manju.
I decided to get a yomogi cheese manju (よもぎ地にチーズ) and red bean manju (白地につぶあん) and a coffee,

I decided to checked what a yomigi is online - Japanese mugwort.
I remain as clueless as I was before I googled.

While waiting, I decided to take a few snaps of the 2nd floor cafe(?) area.



The manjus were quite good. Manjus are basically Japanese dough buns.
It is kind of like chinese buns - not the fluffy steamed ones you get at dimsum restaurants, but like a Mantou(馒头).


I tried their Haiti coffee which was flavoured with rum sugar.
To be honest it's really more alcohol than coffee, It's nice if you love alcohol because it's got a really really distinct rum aroma and flavour.

If you are weak to alcohol, I will not surprised if you get drunk on this, I got really sleepy after I had this, though it could be partly because the kotatsu was so warm and comfortable,

Or maybe they drugged my coffee (just kidding, i think).


Before I left, I bought another manju to take home because I can and I will.
They can be bought to take home from the open window in the owner's cluttered little kitchen.


I personally enjoyed my experience at this cafe, likely because it was so different from what I have ever experienced in a cafe.

To be honest, I will not recommend this cafe to people looking for a standard cafe experience.
For those who are looking for something different and exciting, do proceed, but don't say I didn't warn you.

Address: 5-20 Kagurazaka, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo 162-0825
〒162-0825 東京都新宿区神楽坂5-20
Phone: 03-5228-6393
Hours: Thu - Tue 12noon - 9pm
Closed on Wednesdays
Website: http://www.mugimaru2.com/

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